The easy way of doing a rewire job would be to buy a replacement wiring harness that was made for that specific car. I don't know if they are still available as new-old-stock (NOS) parts, but not too many years ago, there were LOTS of Studebaker parts available, and at very reasonable prices. I would suggest looking on the internet and in Hemmings to see what is available now. There also might be companies that can build a wiring harness for whatever you need, and they might be able to make it authentic enough so it would class as a real restoration. The other advantage is that such a harness should fit very easily.Several companies offer "street rod wiring harnesses" that could probably be made to work in an old Stude. Or it is possible to build a new harness that approximates the one that is already there. The electrical system in most cars of that age was not all that complicated, and building a new harness, or at least replacing the parts of the old harness that are worn out certainly can be done. It takes a bunch of time, though. If I was going to rewire an old car, I would improve the wiring by adding lots more fuses than the original harness used. Fuses can prevent wiring fires if you get a dead short somewhere. I often solder new terminals on wiring, since I think it makes a better joint than just clamping them on. The cheapie clamp on connectors have not always worked the best for me, but I know there are better connectors and clamping systems available. If you want to convert to 12 volts and use a modern alternator, the 6 volt starter and solenoid should work fine, at least if it is in good shape. It even might start the engine much better with 12 volts than with 6 volts. You would need to use a ballast resistor on the coil with 12 volts, or you will be replacing the coil very soon. I am not sure, but suspect that the old Stude used a positive ground system, and I think most, if not all alternators require a negative ground system. Hooking things up with positive ground will probably ruin an alternator almost immediately. If the car has a factory radio, the change in polarity might or might not be a problem. Unless there is a problem with a change in polarity, a 6 volt radio, and the factory gauges can be made to work OK using a specially made, large resistor called a "volt-a-drop" that reduces the 12 volts to 6 volts. The heater and defroster fan motors can also be operated the same way, but I would suggest using a separate resistor. The resistors produce quite a bit of heat when current is running through them, so they need to be mounted where they get good airflow, preferably outside the passenger compartment. One gauge that can be a problem is the ammeter. Most generators produced less than 30 amps at their maximum output, while most modern alternators produce more than twice that. The ammeter might work fine operating on 12 volts if the alternator is not putting out much juice, but if the battery is ever low, it is very possible to SMOKE an ammeter and even cause a fire if the alternator is really producing electricity. I would not try to run all the power through the ammeter as they originally did with the generator if I switched to an alternator. Maybe just the power to the gauges, lights and radio. It is not hard to change all the bulbs to 12 volt models that fit the sockets, but it takes some time. When you take out the old bulbs, it is a good idea to shine up the electrical connections in the old sockets, and make sure the grounds are good. The turn signal flasher unit will need to be replaced with one that is for 12 volts. Converting to 12 volts and using an alternator is a major decision in building an old vehicle. Since the car was built with the 6 volt system it has, the various parts fit right and usually work right together. To be "restored", most people would say that a vehicle has to be set up just like the manufacturer built it, and that would mean leaving it as a 6 volt system. Converting to 12 volts has some advantages, but you have to come up with a mounting/adjusting system for the new alternator, which can be challenging. It is absolutely necessary to mount the alternator just right, with the right pulley for the existing fan belt, and as solidly braced as the alternator was supposed to be braced stock, or the vehicle might not be as reliable as you would want. It is VERY ANNOYING to constantly be throwing belts...BTDT! Unless the whole wiring harness is really bad, I think I would try to patch the bad spots, at least to get the vehicle going. Once I got it operational, I would think about a new harness, if necessary, and about maybe the 12 volt modifications. Good luck, HTH!
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