Home | Gallery | Forum | Ads Sponsored by Yesterday's Tractors 
The Classic Truck Resource Page
Vintage Truck Headquarters

 
Featured Photo

Marketplace
Classified Ads
Photo Ads

Community
Discussion Forum
Forum Archives

Galleries
Misc Truck Photos
Ford Truck Photos
Picture List

Research & Info
Model Profiles
Ford F-Series
Article Archives
Truck Links

Miscellaneous
Contact Us

Related Sites
Antique Tractors
Kountry Life
Tractor Parts
Tractor Manuals

[Home]
Classic Truck Discussion Board

Re: Re: Re: 1967 Mustang


[ Expand ] [ View Follow Ups ] [ Post Followup ] [ Return to Forum ]

Posted by John M on December 19, 2004 at 13:22:44 from (216.251.171.227):

In Reply to: Re: Re: 1967 Mustang posted by Andrew on December 11, 2004 at 22:33:52:

I did exactly what you are thinking of doing, and I did mine with a stick welder to boot.

I assume you plan to keep the car for a long time? If so, your best bet is use your Snap-On spot weld cutter and start up at the torque boxes, when you remove the rear seat, and the sound insulation, you will see the spot welds very clearly.

AS for fabricating versus buying off the shelf- fabricate your own as the off the shelf type are usually far too overpriced for the little actual work they did to produce them- they were likely intended for racing, where the gas tank mount and sheet metal of note are cut out entirely.

When You fabricate yours, you should be able to do an excellent job with 2"x3" 16 guage tubing, and a 16 guage strip about 5 inches wide welded on the top of the tubing so you can contour that metal to the slight gaps you will encounter of the Mustang sheet metal- even when each rail is composed of about 7 pieces if I recall correctly. This allows for your replacements to follow the original location and placements with ease. You will also need about 4 feet of 2"x2" tubing.

Take a lot of measurements tot eh bolt holes where the shock absorbers bolt to the body and use those as benchmarks for your other measurements because the rails are not perfectly flat, they offset inward about 7 inches from rear to front of rails.

Be aware that the dogleg ahead of the rear wheel is a common location for rust penetration as are the floor boards, and the rocker panels- these are all part of the body structure that keeps the car semirigid- the car body will flex a lot as that was how the unibody cars were.

There are a lot of patch panels out there, and they usually fit pretty good.

The only issue is if math and geometry are not your strong suits, expect to make a number of extra cuts because there are a number of compound cuts and the first go may not be close. Expect to use up about 22 feet of tubing- and tack the parts together for fit-up before welding any of it.


Follow Ups:




Post a Followup

Name:
E-Mail: Hide: Yes No
Hiding your address protects you from spam generators but allows you to receive email response notifications.

Subject: Re: Re: Re: Re: 1967 Mustang

Comments:

Optional Link URL:
Link Title:
Optional Image URL:

Email Notification: If you check this box, email will be sent to you whenever someone replies to this message. Your email address must be entered above to receive notification. This notification will be cancelled automatically after 2 weeks.


[Home]

Copyright © 2002-2010 Yesterday's Tractor Co.
Antique Truck Headquarters
www.YesterdaysTruck.com
Privacy Statement | Terms and Conditions of Use