Re: 1969 f250 rear brake drums

Posted by Dennis Benson on April 20, 2008 at 19:00:47 from (64.12.117.76):

In Reply to: Re: 1969 f250 rear brake drums posted by maxadrian on April 20, 2008 at 12:11:16:

Those eight nuts in the middle are holding the outside flange of the axle shaft. The shaft goes to the differential and is splined into a spider gear inside the carrier. With the bolts out tap dwonward on the flange that you just unbolted from the hub so that it's loose. Get a good sized screw driver and pry the axle loose until it's free of the spider gear.

I'm not exactly remembering the Ford, but in lighter rear ends Chevrolet, I believe, there is a clip holding the axle inside the spider gear, and the rear cover has to be removed to remove the clip, but I can't remember if your Ford is like that. I don't think so.

When you get the axle out you will see a tube that the axle came out of. that is the end of the axle housing that the inner and outer bearing rest on. You will see a nut between the hub and that tube around the tube. The tube is threaded, and has a keyway. Then look close and you will see one or two sheet metal tabs bent outward against a flat side of the nut. Take the big screw driver and put it between the nut and tab to push the tab away from the nut and inward, to give room for a socket to fit over the nut. You'll have to buy a special socket for this nut, but they aren't very expensive, and most part stores should have it. After you remove the outer nut you will remove the washer with the tabs on it, and there will be a second nut, this is the one you will torque down when putting the hub back on. Remove this nut, and the hub is free.

If the hub doesn't slide off you will need to back off the brake shoe with a brake spoon. Oposite the place where the brake tube goes into the backing plate there is an oval opening with a rubber plug in it. Remove the rubber plug and inside you will be able, with some difficulty, to find a star shaped wheel that you will need to turn with the brake spoon. That part is like a turnbuckle, and adjusts your brakes out toward the drum, and in to loosen them. There might be an automatic adjuster that will try to prevent rolling this wheel backward, and you will need a smaller longish kind of screw driver to hold this away from the star wheel by pushing it slightly toward the drum and holding it while using the spoon to rotate the star wheel.

Then the hub should come off. Be careful to catch the outer bearing so it doesn't fall into the dirt. The seal will keep the inner bearing from falling out. With the outer bearing out yopu can put one of the nuts back on the center tube and catch the inner bearing and give a good pull and knock the seal out and save a little trouble later. You will be replacing the seal with the brake job.

Now, you are ready to take the drums to the shop to have them measured and turned. Don't be surprised if some shops tell you they can't turn the drum because it tips their brake drum lathe over, you might have to take the drum to a truck shop to have it turned on the bigger lathe. The local NAPA shop couldn't turn my one ton drums because it tipped their lathe over. A place that might be able to turn it is Wingfoot, the truck branch of Goodyear, but there are other places that can turn them. Of corse, if the drums are worn too far you will need to replace them.

Replies:

• Re: 1969 f250 rear brake drums maxadrian 19:39:00 04/20/08 (2)
  • Re: 1969 f250 rear brake drums Dennis Benson 06:24:56 04/21/08 (1)
    • Re: 1969 f250 rear brake drums maxadrian 06:58:54 04/21/08 (0)

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