You may want to check the distributor shaft side to side for play. Grab the rotor button and move north to south and east to west, it should be tight. If you do feel a good bit of play it could change your opening and closeing of the points. You said the fireing order was O.K. 1-5,3-6,2-4. Did you check the rotation of the rotary button to verify the rotation of the distributor? I also agree that some of the internal wire to the distributor could be grounding. To check the new condensor without an ohm meter, remove the condensor and stick the wire end into the end of a spark plug wire on a good engine. Start the engine and hold the condensor clsoe to the block or a plug, a strong spark should jump. If it doesn"t the condensor is bad. NOTE: Be sure to short the condensor houseing and the lead wire with a screwdriver before you handle it. That stored energy will rattle your teeth if you complete the circuit with you hand. You may need to check the fuel bowl in the carb. Old gas or water can make a glob in the fuel bowl and give a person fits when trying to start a truck. Also on some models, GM used a fiber type float that would get spongy over time and cause a problem with the carb. The last thing to check would be the negative battery cable. On some of the older model trucks the wires at the block will fatigue and break and leave only a few to connect the block to the battery. If it gets fire, is reasonably in time, and is getting fuel, it should start.
