Re: Signal Stat 800 turn signal switch

Posted by John McPherson on September 06, 2003 at 11:40:44 from (216.251.170.224):

In Reply to: Signal Stat 800 turn signal switch posted by Steve Sargent on August 26, 2003 at 12:31:13:

If you can locate the wire that supplies the voltage to be switched int he switch, most of your battle is over.

If you are looking to work with only one set of wires to be switched for left and right, the rest can be achieved by making the connections as described here:
What it amounts to is wiring the front turn signals to their corresponding rear signals BUT with a rectifier to keep other lights from lighting(1N4001 should be adequate, or other 1N400# series- Radio Shack or other electronic supplier carries them), with the stripe on the rectifier being attached to the wire to the rear lights.

Find the wire from the brake switch that would energize the brake lights, this will have no voltage presentwhen brakes are not applied, and the other wire is always hot- if it is the design I think you are describing. From this wire, attach to two rectifiers- unstriped end- with the striped to attach to the striped end of the first rectifiers installed one for right, one for left.

As long as the turn switch remains functional for the front lights, the rear lights will function correctly, and the rectifiers are there to block current from going to the wrong lights. This also works if the brake light switch gets moved to the bolt that attaches the brake pushrod to the pedal itself.

This system does work as I have done it to two vehicles with no problems, and the repair lasts as long as the remaining portion of the old switch.

On the switch, the green wire should be right turn, and the yellow wire left. BUT VERIFY.

The two red wires may be for the battery supply voltage to the switch, one supplying tot he green/yellow, and the other to the two whites.

The two whites would require a little bit checking to see which is active for left, and which is active for right.- BUT this is if the switch is still intact. If it is, the red wire supplying the two white wires will need to be routed to a switch either as a pressure switch in the braking hydraulics, or as a switch on the pivot attacing point on the pedal.

If the two white wires are not functional, just wire as I describe up above, and this should work fine for you. The diodes block current from going to filaments that they should not be supplying with current.

If you wire the diodes as described, and the system fails to work, the diodes may be marked differently than anticpated, and then you would just reverse them but keep them in the same location.

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